Yeah! Many of you know that a big clock can cost you an arm and a leg at somewhere like Pottery Barn or even Amazon. Mine ended up costing me $13, which was what I paid for the actual clock movement. Yes, it really tells the time! Everything else was stuff I already had on-hand. I am so pleased with how it turned out, although there were some unexpected difficulties, which we will get into later. As a quick recap, here's what I started with:
First thing, I took the legs and the hardware used to attach them off. Maybe they will reappear in a new project, but I didn't need them for this. Then, I sanded the table top and did my crackle glaze technique on it. After the crackle glaze, I was left with this:
At this point I should have done a clear coat to seal it. I will say this one more time: DO A CLEAR COAT AFTER THE CRACKLE GLAZE. This was the one thing that gave me trouble. I didn't do a clear coat until after some of the next steps, and the paint I added over the top sort of reactivated the glaze. After the crackle glaze, I did a little bit more weathering/distressing with a simple black acrylic paint.
First, I painted on the black, then took a paper towel and wiped it off until I got the look I wanted. I kept the middle mostly the same and got progressively darker as I moved to the edges. Once the paint was dry, I used my Silhouette to make vinyl stencils for the numbers.
The font I used is called Market Deco. Lining the numbers up was a bit of work. I used a T-square to find the center of the circle, then I used my quilting ruler to get all the numbers in the right places.
Before I peeled off the backing on the vinyl, I positioned them and temporarily held them in place with painter's tape. When I was satisfied with where the numbers were, I put the vinyl on and filled in the stencils with the same black I used for the glazing.
If you look closely, you can see that I didn't completely paint the numbers in. I left intentional horizontal brush strokes to add to the weathered look. I pulled the vinyl off (had some trouble with the previously mentioned reactivated glaze) and finally sprayed on a clear coat. At this point all I had to do was let the clear coat dry and install the clock mechanism.
To install the movement, I drilled a hole in the middle of the circle and used a Dremel tool to carve out a little bit of the back so the box would sit in a little bit more. I also had a broken clock from Old Navy that had much bigger metal hands, so I used them instead of the ones that came in the kit, which was a big improvement for me.
I am still trying to decide how to hang it. I am thinking of either drilling a hole in the back for a nail or putting on picture wire. I'm leaning toward the picture wire, which seems more stable. Your thoughts?
Linked up: Skip to my Lou